November 19, 2018
Culture
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France
Catalonia Per Sempre

French Catalans fight to preserve their culture

By Sarah Raghubir

As fireworks soar over the Castillet in Perpignan on Bastille Day, Catalans spontaneously unite to dance the traditional sardane, recognizable by its circular choreography and steady pace. And Castellers, a Catalan form of human pyramid, can easily be found on the schedule of the Feria, an annual bullfighting spectacle in the southern French town of Céret.

But France has not always willingly embraced its Catalan roots.

Castellers of French Catalonia from Perpignan Videos on Vimeo.

Having lived in Perpignan his whole life, Vincent Dumas enthusiastically describes his hometown as an area that has a unique culture, in comparison to the rest of France. But when this young Catalan describes his family history, there is a sense of disdain in his voice as he acknowledges the treatment of his ancestors.

Not so long ago, Catalan children in France were punished for speaking their native language in schools. Many Catalans felt obligated to identify with French culture, and some were even tempted to relocate to Spain.

And while over the years Spanish Catalans have progressed toward having rights to self-governance and establishing themselves as an official nationality, Catalans living beyond Spain’s borders were constantly being reminded of their minority status.

“There was a certain self-hate that was taught to our grandparents in school,” Dumas explained. “There were severe punishments for speaking Catalan, so it’s very difficult now for the generation of my grandparents to go back to being Catalan.”

But today’s generation of Catalans do not face the same tribulations. In this region, the yellow- and-red-striped Catalan flag flies side-by-side with the flag of France on government building and private residences. Public festivals and national celebrations are often accompanied by activities rooted in Catalan customs. Many young Catalans are actively embracing their culture.

“One hundred percent, I am Catalan from the tips of my toes to the ends of my hair,” said Hermine Duran, 48, a member of a local troupe of human castle-builders known as Castellers, Angelets del Vallespir. The Casteller derives from a competitive form of dance performed in teams in both French and Spanish Catalonia.

Catalonia stretches from the Eastern Pyrénées at the southernmost tip of France to the area surrounding Barcelona in Spain. While South Catalonia has become an autonomous community in Spain, the French side of Catalonia, known as North Catalonia, remains a region without any political power of its own.

As a result, less than an hour away from Spain, cities like Perpignan located in North Catalonia have developed a distinct identity — not quite French, not quite Spanish, but Catalan — equipped with their own language, culture and social history.

Perpignan, the last major city before the Spanish border, has especially inherited this identity. According to a 2007 survey, of the 9 million Catalan speakers in Southern Europe, only 125,000 live in France.

“[The Catalan culture] certainly would have disappeared if it weren’t for South Catalonia in Barcelona,” said Dumas. Though his mother hails from the Spanish portion of Catalonia, where Catalan is a co-official language, Dumas has found himself searching for ways to maintain his culture, in a region accustomed to identifying as either French or European.

Since the start of the 17th century, Catalans in the south of France have been somewhat disregarded as a cultural group. Sparking oppression and resentment that would last for centuries, King Louis XIV declared that the use of the Catalan language was “repugnant and contrary to the honor of the French nation.”

Dumas offers the term francisme, which indirectly translates as “Frenchify,” to describe the French government’s efforts to stamp out the Catalan language in favor of French.

And despite their recent popularity within mainstream culture, even the sardane and the Castellers have had a tough time surviving.

“It’s like all histories, there are golden periods and downfalls,” said Joseph Bonet, coach and founder of the Angelets del Vallespir. “But then there came the francisme, and it almost disappeared.” Bonet, who was a Catalan teacher for 15 years before becoming a casteller, says that the 200-year-old tradition of building human towers didn’t resurface until the 1980s.

But, like Dumas and Bonet, many Catalans have taken on the challenge of keeping their culture from disappearing. This generation, Dumas says, has more freedom to be Catalan: it’s much easier for younger people who haven’t experienced the oppression of years past.

Today, Catalan culture is reviving. Dumas has even co-founded an online publication, La Clau, to aid in the recovery .

The magazine aims to defend the Catalan point of view on society, and to simultaneously change European perceptions of the Catalan community. Through La Clau, Dumas says he hopes to strengthen the relationship, divided by modern geography, between North and South Catalonia, to keep the community alive in France.

“You’d have to ask my psyche why this is so important,” he said. “It’s just a part of me. I am an inheritor of a thousand-year-old culture.”

This story was adapted from The Perpignan Project, the web magazine of an annual summer foreign reporting program sponsored by ieiMedia and the San Francisco State University Journalism Department.

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